I’ve been busy with other interests and hobbies so I haven’t had to time work on my engine build this week. Tonight I went into my shop and decided to cleanup as it was muchly needed. There is nothing worse then trying to do a good job and you can’t cause your tools are unorganized or your tripping on engine parts. I cleaned up the shop and now I am ready for some more D16Z6 engine building.

My next step will be to disassemble the cylinder head and the intake manifold of all sensors. Then the block, head, rocker cover and the intake manifold will have to be degreased and dried out. This will have to be done in order to be ready for sand blasting this Friday.

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I was busy with some other things the last few days so I didn’t have time to work on my engine but yesterday after work I decided to go at it. I called my friend Tracey to come over and help me label my parts bags and help me disassemble the motor. I first took of the exhaust manifold and then followed by the intake manifold. Once those were off the engine was easier to maneuver on the engine stand.

I then unbolted the cylinder head and placed it in a plastic tub to drain any oil that was still in it. Once the cylinder head was off it really started rolling then. We unbolted all the external brackets and accessories of the block and drained the oil. Once the oil was drained I flipped the engine over and started to pull the oil pan bolts off with Tracey’s help. After that Tracey pulled off the water pump and the front engine mounting bracket and I pulled off the oil pump and the rear seal bracket.

I then started to loosen the main cap bolts using the cross pattern. I only loosened them up a little at a time and once I got to the last one, I went back to the first bolt and loosened it a little more. I repeated the process till the bolts were loose and then removed them. I tapped the main cap lighty with a piece of wood  on each side to loosen it up and then pulled it off and set it on the side.

The last part was taking out the pistons and connecting rods. I loosened up the connecting rod bolts and pulled the end caps off one at a time. I then cut 2 pieces of old rubber fuel line and pushed them onto the connecting rod bolts so when the pistons were removed through the bottom the cylinders were not scratched.

As you can see in the images of the cylinder walls below, they still have a descent cross hatch pattern. They have no sign of any rig on the top part of the cylinder, so thats a good sign.

The tear down was a success and now the next step will be the machine shop and figuring out what I need to order for connecting rods and piston sizes.

My D16Z6 block is now disassembled and ready for the machine shop.

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These are my first images of my D16Z6 engine, and as you can see it looks very stock right now. There are a couple sensors that are broken and plugs that are bent, but all in all the engine looks to be in good shape. It did not come with a distributor or a crank pulley but for now I don’t need those. I still do have my old D15B7 engine so if needed I can use my crank pulley from that engine, as I believe it’s the same on the 1.5 and 1.6 liter. But I am not 100% sure so I will have to double check this first.

Here are some images of the black valve cover and the VTEC valve train.

Here are 2 more images of the front and back of the engine with the distributor and the crank pulley missing.

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Well It’s officially September and crappy rainy weather will be upon us very soon so I’m gonna park my 93 Civic and use the 95 Civic as my winter beater. This should give me lots of time to do some winter work on the 93 and keep it away from those crazy winter drivers. All thought the 93 Civic project was never meant to be a full race car but instead a daily driver, I don’t see any reason why not to take it off the road for winter especially since I have a spare Civic that’s pretty much ready for a winter beater. And when I do get my turbo this winter I can install it piece by piece and not worry that I have to drive it to work next day and do a rush job.

Depending what happens this fall and winter I also plan on picking up a spare D16Z6 block and start working on my full turbo build from scratch. The best way to learn is to do it yourself so this will be a great winter project and finally build my 13 second Civic. I will have to completely take apart the block, clean it and add low compression pistons, forged connecting rods and upgraded valve train to achieve my goal, but it will definitely be worth it when I race my car next year at Mission Raceway.

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If you’ve spent too much of your hard earn dollars on your engine then you know there is no room for error. I suggest you check your oil pump anytime you take apart the bottom end of your engine or any kind of major performance addon’s. Having low oil pressure is a bad road to go down and will lead to engine failure. If you want to find out how to check if your oil pump is within operating specs, then click Here for the link to a great post on ClubEG6 forums.

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I found a great post on D-seriers.org about a D16 to D18 Stroker build right from the ground up.  Click Here for the link.

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The D16Z6 engine is a great engine to build for turbo applications because of the following reasons:

- Z6 Oil Pumps are solid

- Ease of Tuning as it’s made for the OBD1 ECU

- Top end power is great for turbo builds

- Crank is good up to 600HP

- P08 Cylinder Head with VTEC

Although It can handle up to 200-220HP in stock form if you go beyond this limit, it is advisable to upgrade the valve train, pistons and connecting rods. So if your gonna build a (SOHC) Single Over Head Cam engine, start with the best go with the D16Z6. They are found in 1992-1995 Honda Civic EX and Si models, and also the 1993-1995 Honda Delsol Si

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After friday night’s Mission Raceway drag racing event, I put a 360 spin on my idea of doing the bodywork first and instead will invest the time into a turbo setup. Before I actually go through with it, I will do some research and post what I come up with. My Goal is around 200HP with my stock D16 engine. So far this is what i believe will I need, but this may change.

- Hondata S300 Engine Management
- AEM UEGO WideBand A/F Controller with Gauge
- RC 330 Fuel Injectors (if going over 190HP)
- Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
- eBay Turbo Kit

Now your thinking why buy my turbo kit from eBay? Well I figure if there are any mistakes that I might encounter it’s cheaper to do them on a cheaper turbo, I can always upgrade the turbo later.
 

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